A small piece of background information about each piece of work. The most recently added snippet is at the top. Older snippets can be found grouped together on the collections or archive pages. For further information or to discuss commissions, please call Sue on 07595 836855 or email firstname.lastname@example.org.
To finish the set, I now wanted to weave these same three weft patterns in a 1/3 twill. My head knows that this should be like the reverse of the 3/1 twills that I have just woven, however, as I would like to be able to see them next to each other I will weave them again.
With the width at 250 mm, a quarter of this is 62.5 mm. 9 blocks of brown, white weave came out at 63 mm, so the perfect point at which to pivot.
Friday 5th November 2020
Another break in weaving (and an even longer break in writing up). My notes say that at this point I swapped sets and did white then brown for 9 repeats. Then a change of colour and direction so now brown then white and in practice miss the first row with 4 lifted, thus starting with 3 in white. Turn again after 17 brown picks (18 white). (Did you get all that? Hope it makes sense when I need to use it again!)
Saturday 6th November 2020
The last two sets for this piece were woven with a final colour change to finish, ie. 9 repeats of white then brown. Final size 241 mm wide* 226 mm long.
Similar to snippet 217 this shows the effect of the changes in a 1/3 twill.
This was simple to weave. The fading weft pattern that I had used for the other two weave patterns to complete this twill set, making a piece 240 mm wide * 134 mm long.
Fading weft from brown to white in 3/1 twill creates this interesting little piece.
So now to weave stripes of brown and white weft in blocks. Rather than progressing from top to bottom in size, this group was designed to pivot on a brown stripe. Thus, I started by weaving 16 picks of white (4 blocks of the twill repeat), then 12 of brown and 8 of white before starting on a central 12 picks of brown (it could have been just 4), but this would have left the piece a little short and rather white heavy.
Thursday 15th October 2020
The aim for today, was to get to the middle of this piece. This was accomplished!
Saturday 24th October 2020
With a Uni hand-in scheduled for yesterday afternoon; work for this had rather taken over. So, now on a mission this weekend to finish this piece, complete this twill and start the next one.
Today I finished the striped twill. Size 245 mm wide * 258 mm long.
Stripes created by handweaving blocks of colour in 3/1 twill.
Moving on the aim is to repeat this pattern of weaving but this time using a 3/1 twill. Back to the two tone picks of brown, white, brown, white and initially weaving twill from left to right. Once weaving this settled to a width of 25 cm, so the swap in direction of twill 12.5 cm.
Monday 12th October 2020
Having spent some time thinking about what I am trying to achieve with this warp, I not only want to change direction, but I also want to swap the colour order. This needs to be roughly half-way through each direction block, thus c66 mm and again at c188 mm.
I had already woven 66 mm in 40 picks, so this is the perfect point at which to change to white, brown, white, brown for 40 picks. Then I stayed with this colour pattern but switched the twill direction so that it is now starting right to left, then for the final block I maintained this twill but swapped the colours back to the original brown, white, brown, white order.
Tuesday 13th October 2020
Finished weaving the final block. Final size 242 mm wide * 250 mm long.
Changes in blocks created by swapping colour order and twill direction.
To complete this set of 2/2 twills, another fade will be woven, this time starting with circa 3 cm of white and ‘fading’ to 3 cm of brown. Again 12 picks of each will be woven.
Tuesday 6th October 2020
This created an amazing set of colour weaves, almost a dog-tooth in some places. It came up rather short at only c135 mm, nevertheless it is beautiful. Final size: 242 mm wide * 128 mm long.
Handwoven 2/2 twill showing spots and zig zags created by weaving with brown and white.
Now for stripes. Again, starting with white for 4 picks, then brown, then 8 of each. This time rather than reflecting the stripes the aim is to keep going so that the stripes simply get wider and wider.
Tuesday 29th September 2020
The plan suggests that small oblongs of colour should be prominent in this pattern. With the white stripe now coming up a lot wider, by the time 16 picks of each had been woven the full length was around 13.5 cm, so it looks as though 24 picks of each will be required.
Thursday 1st October 2020
20 picks of each were woven, bringing the length to c20 cm and confirming that an even longer repeat is required.
Sunday 4th October 2020
The last two blocks of this pattern were woven, giving a final size (after washing) of 238 mm wide * 260 mm long.
Handwoven stripes in a 2/2 twill creates these dramatic offset spots.
Now I wanted to repeat these weft colour patterns, but this time in a 2/2 twill. As the warp is a reflection, weaving a left to right twill will produce a right to left one on the second part of the warp. The colours are also on the opposite shafts, thus the left hand side is brown on 1 and 3, whilst on the right hand side these are on 4 and 2.
Changing the colour order should make very little difference, however, the reversal of the twill will.
Saturday 19th September 2020
Started weaving the 2/2 twill. The first 6 sets came to less than 5 cm, thus it looks as though around 16 sets will be needed.
Friday 25th September 2020
It took 19 sets to reach c13.5 cm, so now it is time to reverse the twill, this instantly starts to create a diamond in what will be the centre of the piece.
Monday 28th September 2020
The 19 sets in this direction seem to measure 15cm, so the piece won’t be square, but should be roughly 28 cm long. Final size (after washing) 241 mm wide * 255 mm long.
Handwoven twill weave creates a dramatic diamond pattern.
The plan for the next piece was in some ways more complicated. I wanted to try lots of different combinations, starting with an all brown weft and gradually “fading” to an all white one.
Aiming for roughly 3 cm of each pattern:
would create a finished piece of roughly 21cm. This would make a rectangle wider than its height. 12 picks of brown is roughly 3 cm of plain weaving, so each other pattern was continued for 12 picks.
Friday 18th September 2020
The third of the plain weave pieces was completed with a finished size (after washing) of 253 mm wide * 205 mm long.
Simply changing the colour pattern in the weft picks makes this amazing striped piece.
Now to try the next colour pattern, this time blocks of the weft colours, creating a striped piece. With white first the plan is to do 4 picks of white, then 4 of brown, then 8 picks of each before measuring. What is effectively 3 sets of each colour measured c6.5 cm. Simply reversing this would make a piece on 13 cm, much too short, so a further 12 picks of each were woven, reaching a woven length of 12.5 cm. If reversed this would be just 25 cm, creating another square piece. This is not ideal. Also, I would like to reverse the stripes so that both first and last stripe are white.
The solution, weave 16 picks of white as the central turning point. The white is weaving up slightly thicker than the brown (as expected), so this will make a heavier looking central stripe.
I say stripe, but the colour plan for block of colour shows that little squares should be seen; with the white weft creating brown squares and the brown weft giving white ones.
Thursday 17th September 2020
Snippet 212 was finished with a final size (after washing) of 252 mm wide * 278 mm long.
A brown and white striped warp woven in blocks of colour to make a striped piece with grid shapes.
After a total of 6 hours and10 minutes spent warping, I started weaving. A simple plain weave in the same colour pattern as the warp so brown, white, brown, white. As this is a two tone warp, I hope that the finished fabric will look something like half vertical and half horizontal stripes.
Wednesday 16th September 2020
The piece is now coming up c26 cm wide, so to make four squares the initial weave needs to be c13 cm long. This is roughly 12 sets of 4 picks. So, after 48 picks two of white are woven to swap the patterns over.
Final size (after washing): 258 mm wide * 240 mm long.
First piece of colour weave in brown and white creating blocks of stripes.
Things are moving along slowly. Today I tied the warp together ready to take off the mill and transfer to the loom, I also attached the raddle to the back of the loom. Now I just have to be brave and start warping.
Monday 7th September 2020
Have done just that. The warp is now off the warping mill and rolled on to the loom. Seems that I’ve somehow managed to get an even number of warp ends, so not quite sure if I’ve got too many or too few. I guess I’ll find out in due course, meanwhile things are on the up. (Not the best lighting, but the warp can be seen.)
Tuesday 8th September 2020
More progress; I have threaded the first 19*4 heddles all 1 to 4, with white in the odd numbers and brown in the even ones. Had intended to do a point turn here, but I want the white to be on the even shafts this side (and the brown on the odds), so will do a second 4 and then thread 4 to 1 for the rest of the warp.
Wednesday 9th September 2020
The good news is that I counted correctly when winding the warp and have 38 sets of 4 all threaded. Now to dent this, effectively one end per dent (although for the white this means two yarns as I am doubling up to get a similar weight to the brown). Looks like to tomorrow I will actually be able to start weaving!
Thursday 10th September 2020
Well not quite weaving, but every end is now also through the dent and the warp is tied onto the receiving roll too.
Two tone (brown and white) warp being set up on my 4-shaft loom.
By the end of yesterday, I had decided how to build the warp and wound the first 20 ends. Today is all about continuing this.
Thursday 20th August 2020
Having established how wide it is possible to make this warp I have thought about how I will use the finished textile. For a cushion cover either 51cm or 27cm are ideal, likewise for wall art the piece either needs ideally to fit an A4 frame mounted horizontally or an A3 frame vertically. As 51cm is not possible on this loom, with these yarns, that means that a target of around 27cm is preferred. With the yarn end weights calculated above, 171 warp ends should achieve this and fit the threading pattern.
Final number of ends established back to winding!
Building my Two-tone warp on the warping mill.
This was a momentous day. Time to create my first warp on my own warping mill for my own 4-shaft loom. Before anything else I needed to find out more about my own loom.
Time spent counting dent spaces and working with a steel tape suggests that there are approximately 280 dents in roughly 50cm of loom width giving c5.5 epc. Next a count of heddles showed that there are 60 on shaft 1 and then 80 on each of shafts 2, 3 and 4.
Suitably armed with this information, time to think about my first warp, which starts with a yarn wrap of the proposed yarns. Since I had created a 5-colour warp in January at Uni, I had planned to do a 2-colour warp to really experiment with some colour weaving. Thus, the Two Tone warp that I’ve chosen to create based on the brown and white yarns that I have available.
The brown is Argyll Supa-Warm for Thermal machine knitting: 45% Courtelle (acrylic), 40% danaklon (polypropylene) and 15% wool measuring at 14mm for 10 ends on the card. The white is Atkinsonyarn, Pearl 98 white, from the Yorkshire mohair mill, this measures in at 9mm for 10 ends. This is, however, quite an uneven yarn with a slough in it, so is effectively even thinner.
For a colour warp to work properly the two colours should be of even weight. As these two yarns are quite different two strands of the white will be used with every one of the brown. The two being warped and woven as a single, thus the combined epc is in the order of 6 for this warp, ie. one / dent.
A maximum potential width of 280 ends, however, I want to use a plain 1 to 4 warping plan, so the warp is limited by the number of heddles on the first shaft, ie. 60. Thus my total warp will be 60 * 4 = 240. (This will be reduced by one as I plan to reverse the shaft pattern at a central point, so that the two halves of the warp will be woven in matching patterns.) On this basis final width should be around 44cm
Yarn wrap for two tone warp of brown and white yarns.
As often happens time is now running short and in this case so, too, is my warp. To finish it off I wanted to make a self-coloured check in plain weave, (my first piece had been in a twill) and combine this with using the warp to make the weft, thus, creating a diagonal piece. This time I tried cutting each warp thread as I needed it, leaving the first two on the right- hand side in place to provide tension. I still found that the last few picks condensed to make a rounded end, but managed to keep the tension better than when I had tried this on a previous warp.
Warp finished, it was time to go home, recover and plan the next project.
Warp becomes to fully show off the Pools collection colour palette.
Having decided that the emphasis on the mock leno blocks was greatest in the orange, I chose this as my colour for the next piece. The aim of this piece was to make 4 mock leno squares on a plain background roughly 5 times the size of each small square.
To achieve this I needed to work with five, rather than six blocks, so I cut the last full warp repeat on the right hand side, then produced this piece using the same weave pattern as the last one, but rather than swapping the blocks of the first, third and fifth repeats these were simply woven as plain weave across the whole width of the warp.
Squares of mock leno in plain weave frame on Pools warp.
Despite being short I love the overall effect of snippet 204 and this is something that I will return to in future warps.
I had now reached the moment of truth, I should have enough sample pieces for both Bradford and Nieper and want to try re-denting this warp for an exaggerated mock leno effect. Thus, it was time to cut.
Once off the loom I was reassured that I did have sufficient useable pieces and so turned my attention back to the warp. I want to continue working with the block effect that can be created on this warp. The ultimate aim is to produce mock leno squares within a plain weave framework. To achieve this I want to weave blocks in all of my yarns (two sets of each to create squares) and I want to exaggerate the spacing in alternate blocks to really allow the mock leno weave to be expressed.
I decided to leave all the 1-8 shafts dented as before, but with the 9-16 shafts I grouped the ends in fours leaving an empty dent between each group. This meant that I only had to re-dent half of the warp and was soon back to weaving.
I started with the mid-blue and found that 3 repeats of the plain weave produced the right length of weave to make squares in the sample. So, after 3 repeats I changed the blocks over.
After producing two sets of blocks in the mid-blue my brain was shot. It was time to pack up and go home!
Tuesday 3rd March 2020
I had “redented” the warp last week and started on a piece making squares out of plain weave and mock leno.
Having started with a mid-blue section and found that 3 repeats of the mock leno was approximately square, I swapped the blocks over after 24 picks to create the squared effect that I had been working with before.
Then it was time for the pale-blue, again 3 repeats seemed to be enough to make a square. Three repeats was also used for the lilac and the purple, however, the dark blue being a heavier yarn required only 2 repeats and the orange being much finer needed 4.
Once off the loom the effect of the redenting became more obvious. Although, the mock leno created a warp distortion in all of its blocks, the holes were sharper and more obvious in the panels that had been dented into groups of four ends with gaps.
The mock leno also causes the horizontal edges of the plain weave to undulate, this is most obvious along the lines where the weft colours change, effectively creating a distorted weft.
The weight of the weft yarn also has a considerable effect on the nature of the pattern, with the dark blue (only 2 repeats) having less visual impact than the orange (4 repeats). The number of yarns tried has made this quite a long piece at 28cm, but has allowed decisions about the next piece to be made.
Mock leno blocks in different colours to exploit uneven denting.